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Good Year 71

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Posts posted by Good Year 71

  1. I’m with most here. I keep 3 in my craft, plus legally required throw flotation devices. Though in truth, I would rather dodge rush hour traffic, barefoot and naked, than enter a tournament. This must know fact clarified, safety first, liability second.

     

    You not only should mandate it, you should have provisions available. Rent the dam thing if you want. The exception being if rules clearly state they must bring their own, or use one a boater provides. Otherwise, if they don’t bring one, and they are not lent one, they don’t fish. The end. You’ll have some upset at you. But they’ll learn their lesson quick. And odds are you’ll probably save someone’s life someday.

     

    I am among the few who have pulled a near victim out the water. Sheer chance. And sheer stupidity. Do not take the risk.

  2. On 11/16/2023 at 4:12 PM, ozark_marine said:

    Right at the knot. Had a little curve in the line still from the knot.

    Lubrication obvious, slowly cinch to avoid heat accumulation not so much, but both are important. The main trick is to not cross the line tying a Palomar. You want it side by side throughout the knot. Most don’t bother to confirm this, but as you experienced it does matter. Mono, copoly, braid no big deal, but fluorocarbon can crack. You won’t be able to see it, the knot will look good, but it isn’t.

  3. Interesting… can’t say I’ve had trouble myself. But I let them air dry a couple weeks or more largely due to odor you describe. I used the stuff frequently several years back, custom pours I didn’t want to give up on, some having been repaired half dozen times or more

  4. Interesting topic. For me it pretty much depends on how flush I am when the bait monkey bites. I’ve overpaid, with intent or accident, underpaid, happy to buy direct. But I agree with ‘swim tested’ baits bothering me as I’ve definitely been delivered a few duds from this house. Not cool guys. Reels are hard to tell though, I’ve bought new that needed work it happens. But sticks? If I don’t know you, I do not want your stick. True story, I sold a good man a very very nice import I acquired new for a trip I ended up not taking. Travel assembly, obviously, sold it to a buddy for 40 cents on the dollar after sitting on it a few years. I was deflated, but happy for him. First use, first cast, it shattered. You never know.

  5. 3 hours ago, SwingAway said:

    Absolutely. But do you think that those baits need to be $100+ baits? Or is thinking you need those sorts of baits just fueled by something other than wanting to learn how to catch fish?

    Certainly not, and I don’t know. But learning does not have a price tag. A man does not need a collection of $100 shoes learning to pick up women either. But if those shoes help bag the ultimate prize, then so be it... 

  6. 4 hours ago, chevro1et said:

    There's always early adopters.  And status / clout chasers.  It's more of a 'proof of concept' in my mind than an actual practical application at this time.  Hard to say where this type of technological application will be in a few years.

    My guess is pay to play, probably after a so many months long intro period. It probably won't start that way, but it probably will end that way. And I can't imagine what it'll cost to repair or possibly even service one of these. I suspect it'll be all inclusive, map updates, annual service, repair discounts, included in one low monthly payment. Shipping at user expense. I'm no stranger to top end, this would not be my most expensive, but I'm not touching this. I wish anyone who dares best of luck.

  7. You guys actually look at the projected cost of these? You're looking at a grand out of pocket at current exchange rate which is highly favorable. For now. Downloading an app? Charging a battery? Using a phone to make brake adjustments? No way these sell well.

  8. If I may, I usually have little issue throwing UNDER listed weight rating. The issue, and danger, is throwing OVER rating assuming you care your stick doesn’t break. But under, if you’re comfortable go for it. Casting is more tricky as mentioned, distance is compromised, no way around it, the tip simply isn’t built for it, and possible backlash you mention is a concern when trying to overcompensate release to make up distance. But if you accept what you’re using, fish it for what it provides, assuming max distance isn’t a worry, it can be done. I do it quite often actually.

    However, line selection becomes critical. Some baits don’t perform ideal with line too heavy. As such, if you downsize (as I do) remember you’re throwing line under rated as well. You swing hard, that powerful blank can stretch irregular and/or pop knots in lower test rating. If you ignore this, you will suffer consequence. But if you remain cognizant of this line factor, accept casting limitations, you'll be fine.

    As for playing fish, also mentioned, an overpowered stick will put you at a slight disadvantage. But only assuming you downsize line. If not, no worry. If so, you’ll have to compromise. Simple matter, run your drag slightly lighter, rely on it a little more, keep your rod tip pointed a little more toward the fight. Not a big deal, it’ll feel weird at first, but you adapt.

    Side note; there is an unspoken advantage fishing overrated since our stick is usually longer where extra controllable length affords greater bait manipulation. While I see zero purpose fishing overrated attempting distance, I do find extra length useful in certain situations. I do it on purpose. It’s a give and take. Apologies on length, complex topic, just trying to help. Good luck

  9. Good thing you didn't get HH Air. They are not designed for chucking weight. ZR can manage it, not the Air. But whatever, ZPI is legit. As for ceramics, be smart and put a half drop of oil on each. Your first cast will expel what the races can't hold so it won't matter. And, yes, Boca is comparative junk. Don't hate the messenger.

  10. If I may, the simple fact you asked suggests you could use a new combo. I'm of the mod/fast mindset for preference (not fast/mod and yes there is a difference) and never been comfortable with any true full moderate action stick. Some are, not me, just my preference. That written, you can't pay me to fish big anything with a true fast action stick either. Anyway, if you need that nudge, I suggest treat yourself and grab another combo. You know you want to...

  11. ^^^ I, too, tie direct to 178, though mostly to use preference. 230 sometimes, not always, and agree with your reasoning. No happy medium for me, I'll clip 230 slow, otherwise move it out direct. Much depends on the stick though; all rods do not impart action equal, and I don't use the reel much. Nice fish BTW

  12. lol so far I got you guys beat and if there is 'fame' to any claim I own it's my 99% guarantee leaving something I want to bring at home. My dumb azz was all happy, perfect day, perfect weather, perfect water, all smiling and stuff driving out, butter smooth launch, water all to myself, found my start, pulled my sticks, and couldn't find the #@&* big tray of handpicks. I panicked, started questioning myself, digging through the boat with trays littering the deck, tripped and kicked a few overboard. They sunk. Felt like getting kicked in the nuts. Twice.

  13. 12 hours ago, Jerkbait22 said:

    When you say rip, are you talking pulls of the rod, or hard downward jerking movements? I think these are the two different interpretations of ripping a jerkbait so wanted to clarify. And thanks for the feedback - you gave me a lot of good info before purchasing the baits over the winter - much appreciated. 

    Rod pull, lots of interpretation I’m sure, but figure a ‘jerk’ about half a ‘rip’ sorry I don’t know how else to explain it lol. Side to side or downward and such doesn't have much to do with it I don't think. I don’t use the reel very much, mostly just gobble slack is all, prefer sticks on the firm side, keep my drag fairly light, and tend to run quicker than most. I also don’t care for true ‘fast’ action rod assemblies either, which may/may not have little/lot to do with how one might impart action rod in hand. My preference is forcing 178’s to move though. How you do it is up to you. And if you don’t, that’s cool too. But we have element of current here, and rarely mentioned but in Cali some of our bass can probably eat most bass in most states. No offense lol but a 178 isn’t much bigger than a lot of what we throw already anyway. No right or wrong way to do it, just a different action, different way is all

  14. Forget about drawing power and focus on use. Craft like speed. Probably half the reason they’re offered in many loud colors. 178 is streamlined to use very aggressive, 230 not as much obviously. You can literally rip the 178, but not 230. Years past we would read how dudes shaved the joint to add glide width on 230’s, I never understood why. It’s narrow by design, that’s the whole point. But whatever. Different water, species, use preference and such, basically you either dig these or you don’t. Get one and don’t be scared to really move it.

  15. 4 hours ago, Snookonfly said:

    The tournament guys down here In the south all talk about Gamma Edge as the strongest line produced. Gammas 16 lb line has a 22lb actual breaking strength. Their 20 lb line has a 28lb actual breaking strength. If you read the reviews you’ll see lots of “I’ve never broken off on this line” 

    That is to some extent because Gama is not a true test line

    .430mm 20lb Gama Edge

    .370mm 20lb Seaguar Tatsu

    For the record, it appears InvisX splits the gap at .400mm or so I see listed. My point here is not bash or suggest as we all have preferences and they are all good lines, but rather point out listed test strength is not absolute. Diameter is absolute, assuming listed accurate, and should be our guideline

  16. 2 hours ago, BPayne said:

    Alright guys, I’m starting to think I may need a push to get me moving in the right direction.  I’ve been throwing all my stuff on 25 lb Maxima Ultragreen Mono since I first got my big bait setup.  I knew at the time that it wouldn’t be allowing my baits to achieve their full potential, but I considered it insurance to help prevent losing baits (and I haven’t lost one yet *knock on wood*).  At the time I started, I was worried about losing $50+/- baits…now, I’ve got a few $200+ baits and the fear of losing one is real.  I’ve come to the conclusion that I may be hitting a performance barrier because of my line (and probably my rod as well, but first thing’s first! lol).  I know from my traditional tackle days that straight fluorocarbon and I do NOT get on well, so that is off the table.  I do have confidence in straight co-poly, but I’m leaning towards heavy braid to mono leader.  I run a lot of braid to leader on conventional, but I’m absolutely terrified of that dreaded “dig-in” with a heavy-ish bait and watching it make its way into orbit (I had this happen a long time ago with a Hudd on straight braid making an overhand cast on a frogging rod….I know, don’t ask).  I have 1 setup for big baits (Conquest 400 on Dobyns 867).  I use that to throw everything from G2 Shellcrackers to 11” BullShads and everything in between.  So given my situation, and my fear, I need a push…reassurance or even tough love to get me to take that leap so I can move forward.  

    Given what you say then why not downsize to 20lb Ultragreen first? You already know the line, the feel, expectations and so forth. It's my confidence fallback, too. Good stuff. And the 20lb test has break strength in the neighborhood of like 28-29lb as I recall. It's oversize by design, as many brands are, you'll probably be fine. The smaller diameter will net extra distance on cast, allow crankdowns deeper, more bait freedom of movement. Just make a point of feeling that last 5 foot or so a little more often, retie a little more often, you know the drill. I'm not trying to talk you into or out of anything here, just sharing observation is all.

  17. 10 hours ago, Hmoob said:

    Sometimes you just have to stand your ground and for what you believe in......only way to stop a bully is to punch him back!!!! Might not be the wisest decision but it'll make the bully think twice....

    I bet the marina will think twice now about harassing someone else. 

    Respectfully, I hear you, but I don't know man this isn't really about standing ground here. Technically, that's what both these guys were doing for their own reason, no doubt derived by what they both believed. And I'm not picking sides, though I feel the dock fellow was wrong IMO, but now look at things. Blown up on the internet, apparent death threats according to article (?!), this is the type thing that leads to no fishing zones and restricted access. There is no winner. I see both these guys at fault. Yeah, dude on dock could use some adjusting. But that dock can't move. Boater could have moved, explained reason to followers, set example of how to de-escalate situation. He had the entire rest of the lake to choose from, but instead opted to make an issue. Simply saying 'sir' does not change this obvious passive aggressive situation. What I see is as a classic failure in leadership on both sides. Just my opinion. Peace

  18. 13 hours ago, Hmoob said:

    Its the same here in California....there should be no harassment, but unfortunately it happens...it's sad!!!! But always you should stand your ground if your not in the wrong!!!!! It'll piss them off even more haha

    To what end? Odds are reason WHY individuals act out against us is BECAUSE of being pissed off by others. Right or wrong this would only make matters worse. In principle what you state is justified. In practice it amounts to detriment of others. Just take the high road and move on. Let it go. 

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