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Mountainryan

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Everything posted by Mountainryan

  1. Just the master, I wanted to pour plastisol and it won’t stand up to that.
  2. First pour! Just a easy to see junk color. Little tinkering but really close to perfect. Now I need some water that isn’t solid.
  3. The print took about 8 hours, the design a couple of days.
  4. Pretty stoked on how this came out. 6” full body, big paddle tail. Will have a 10/0 weighted beast poured into the bait. Will be weedless (think weedless Huddleston) with the slit in the top. Will probably set up a stinger treble as well. Making a two piece mold so I will be able to do skin pours for even more pattern options.
  5. Looks good! I wish there was an easier way to do the scales, very cool.
  6. Yeah, Caesar said he uses the line 8 mil bags. I don’t need a 1000 though haha. Found some on amazon. Should be good for some hudds and paddle tails I’m making
  7. Hey SU, anyone know where makers like Caesar at toxic get those heavy plastic zip bags he stores his hudds and sells the softbaits in? Thanks ryan
  8. Little swim vid of the bait, font one finished up and threw a round lip in that I had laying around. I will probably end up with a coffin lip and lexan. Needs some tuning but it swims! IMG_1957.MOV IMG_1957.MOV
  9. @danthefisherman I will fight ppl for that glide if you put out for trade! Anyone doing a rat? May put two baits Up. I just like making and fishing them.
  10. Some of you may have seen my other baits in the swap thread. Here is an example of how well the xtc-3D epoxy works to smooth prints. Uncoated L vs coated R. I had been sanding my prints a little bit to take some of the rough out. Well that was a mistake.... the epoxy coats over raw print to mirror finish with zero prep (I didn’t even wash it and for sure handled it) here is raw print vs sanded. Sanded is worse after one coat, usually clear after 2. @RayRe
  11. After a few fails from the rear pin slipping down and not coming out, finally a bait together. Tail isn’t in final position. Now for finding open water and testing.
  12. They sure are! But that’s the only way you can mold them and pour them into the bait easily. I planned on tuning the bait and will screw them in more. No idea how far in when looking at the computer.
  13. First pour. Pouring baits with the hardware in is so much nicer. Parting line isn’t as clean as I would make with clay but for no work I’m pleased. also here is a sneak pic of another project.
  14. Another color, thought I had a pic of a yellow/ green glitter but apparently I didn’t
  15. @chefchris these are just half positives, so only the pieces above the flat areas are baits. The red is so thick because I’m a 3D design noob. Baits probably 1” thick. And that’s just the 3D print marks. It’s so thin I didn’t want to coat it and loose thickness.
  16. I know it’s early but I’ve been working on this... so after a ton of failed prints I finished the back half of the bait. I printed in PLA, matching mold halves. Did a little sanding and coated with Smooth On xtc-3D epoxy. Should pour up the molds tonight. I just printed the actual mold for the tail and I’m pleased with with it. Tail is made of silicone.
  17. Rats are sick! Yeah, just either print the whole mold (see my post) or print half side positives to box in and pour your mold halves over. Also check out Smooth -on xtc-3d it’s an epoxy designed to smooth out 3D prints. I would get away from pla baits as fast as you can. They will absorb water and pla isn’t that tough. Hate to see you catch one on your bait and lose it!
  18. The printing isn’t hard, I got a pretty stripped down model that I had to build. It was fun to build but not super difficult. The 3D design process is a real btch as I have zero experience. Probably why I use software designed for children lol
  19. So I’m a terrible artist so I’ve been looking for a way to get around this problem. Got a 3D printer and jumped into trying that. First project was a jumbo “toad” style bait. Poured in silicone with inner air bladders. Came out clean. Takes an 8/0 beast with some weight removed. Printed the whole mold but could make silicone molds off a master. I also designed and printed rattles that fit in the air bladders. Next project is a 2 piece and 3 piece gill wake bait. Pretty stoked on this process.
  20. Slow sink UFO. This is a early release that was sold wrapped by realistic wraps in gill. Thing is dope and is super iridescent at night. It has some mojo but is in great shape. Taking offers. 603-583-0656 Ryan
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