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how do you avoid snags?


gtw7983
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Thanks a bunch for all the replies. I really appreciate it guys.

I've learned a lot from evreybody. Just bought a floater hinkle trout from a member, can't wait to try it out next week.

Do you guys think i will have success with a floating hard bait at this time of the year fishing from shore?

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From shore I'd say 80# braid, (might miss out on a few bites but it still gets bit here in SD), switch your hooks, and set your drag a little lower. If you hang up tighten that drag up and try to bend the hooks out with steady pressure. Lure retrievers will have limited success from shore (so will the above mentioned technique I imagine haha). But, it's that or break the law by hopping in the water. I think you said you lost $500 in baits... I don't think a water contact ticket is $500 but I could be wrong. I also don't advocate ever breaking the law but a friend of a friend might have had to go swimming at Murray a couple times... just saying. If I end up fishing from shore here I'll either throw a weedless Hudd or something that will ride higher in the water column.

 

Obviously $500 will get you a tube or about 10 rentals and that paired with a lure retriever should help with your problems.

 

BTW a Hinkle floater probably won't work right now ;) ... I'll trade you a lure retriever and a scuba mask for it haha jk... but seriously

 

Good luck dude

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  • 4 months later...

In one pond I fish I have successfully covered all possible snags with hooks and swimbaits. Every square inch. It is now impossible to snag there. You just pull up a old hudd or rising son. I do not suggest this strategy.

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Fish fluoro and be aware of your bait at all times, I can usually feel a stump, or rock, or any obstruction for that matter a few cranks before my bait contacts it. I always raise my rod tip and slowly work my bait over/through the contacting cover with hudds, they are heavy enough that they wont really snag probably 75% of the time when you don't put more pressure than is needed, guys get snagged when they sink their hooks past the barbs. No more simply put, than it doesn't really need to happen if you pay attention.

 

Also learn to do the line shooting trick to unsnag as well, where you raise your rod and pull your line then shoot it back down the line, it has saved e lots of money, and even more time.

 

Like ratfink said, I get snagged, get it off, and get bit, often.

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Fish fluoro and be aware of your bait at all times, I can usually feel a stump, or rock, or any obstruction for that matter a few cranks before my bait contacts it. I always raise my rod tip and slowly work my bait over/through the contacting cover with hudds, they are heavy enough that they wont really snag probably 75% of the time when you don't put more pressure than is needed, guys get snagged when they sink their hooks past the barbs. No more simply put, than it doesn't really need to happen if you pay attention.

 

Also learn to do the line shooting trick to unsnag as well, where you raise your rod and pull your line then shoot it back down the line, it has saved e lots of money, and even more time.

 

Like ratfink said, I get snagged, get it off, and get bit, often.

Agreed....this is gunna sound dumb but "time on the water" if you know what your bait is doing at all times snags won't be a problem..once you have been doing it for awhile you will be able to tell the way structure and cover elements feel whether it's weeds rock laydowns or slime..fish the same places and learn them well you should know what the bottom looks like...I own a boat but I fish from shore 80% of the time

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