colbypearson

is that 8.5 your metanium? Yes.

I always end up using atleast a 7.0:1, but end up using my 8.5:1 a lot too...... Shits wack, but anything else feels weird.

Just ironic. Swimbait communities a bunch of whiny little girls anyways.

Thread about 0 integrity. It's a fu*cking box. And you have a Hinkle on fleabay for 500$.

My #1 is a ROF 12 8", coldest I've caught one in was 35 surface temp. Half the lake was frozen that day. I fish similar temps Dec-Feb.

Spray mine with bang and rubbed pro-cure on it, I never had a problem, but if someone had problems that were for sure from scent, don't do it.

I'd rather go a few days after, even a week, once the trout disperse and spread out. Some of my lakes go from 0 trout, to a lot of trout, in one stocking, and I do better a few days after once they are truly keyed. If the fish eat trout all year, I'd think it'd be a little quicker, opposed to fish eating bluegill and craws for months.

Like the hack in the video said, I think fishing glides on a light rod makes a difference.

What a "not allowed" joke Not sure why its a joke. I'm stoked to get one.

I'll manage. lol.

Make a cast deep, if you don't get bit, make a cast shallow. Repeat as necessary. Really want to leave it at that, but wont. I don't know what deep is to you, but fish in some (most) of my lakes don't ever get deeper than a certain layer of water, I don't think its necessarily the thermocline, a little deeper, and pretty much the same principles. If the water is stratified, fishing deeper than a certain point, is...point-less. I ONLY catch fish bottom bouncing deep water from now (November) to about late February, as soon as the water temps re-establish in early Spring, that bite dies for me, and I won't catch another truly deep ->(relative) fish until late fall again the next year (post turn-over). I'm certain that some lakes fish set-up in the heat of summer, like they do in the dead of Winter....They just don't do it here, I waited all year for them to do it, they didn't..... I did find them suspended right above, the exact spots I figured I could eventually catch them on, I even got one around 10 suspended (10'over mid 20's) in the general area I would bottom bounce during the Winter. It's a trip. In a deeper reservoir type lake, the thermocline might establish in the summer and be 30, 40, 50ft deep, but that's a different story. If you have electronics definitely use them.

Sold my last one for $286, only regret was not getting more a few months later .

Just so good, I wanted it to be posted twice. Percentages are stupid, I wouldn't even want to win with a 5.5lbr........ Not that I would, because someone from a state with an even dinkier state record would kick my ass.

LOL, not so sure about that... You fishing Tahoe, or Crater Lake?.......... San Diego...literally gin clear water Crater lake boasts an average water clarity of 90-100', its an effin' Volcano that has no vegetation and an extremely basic water makeup, you can't drive boats on it, let alone throw any sort of non-artificial bait into the lake, its fed entirely by snow melt.. The clearest lake I've bass fished at was probably Havasu, toward the Southern reaches, I saw some clarity that you could legitimately call about 30' clarity, my favorite lake might hit upper 20's if theres absolutely no boat traffic, wind, or influx. A particular extremely clear reservoir in N.Cal I've seen MAYBE 30', and I've seen Shasta hit maybe 27'+ one time in the Early Fall, without rain. Tahoe's avg clarity is supposedly 70' and there's restrictions as to what you can grow within the water-shed I'm sure there's more also..... I just don't think you are fishing water anywhere remotely near 60' clarity, and if you are, A. Thats bad ass, and B. It probably doesn't have a whole lot to do with the fishing anyways. I'd way rather fish them in clear water than brown anyways. Smallmouth x Spot tourney'd be fine by me.....

LOL, not so sure about that... You fishing Tahoe, or Crater Lake?..........

imo I beg to differ...a 5#er in a state like Minnesota is probably older than a 12-13#er in cali..seriously think about it logically I also beg to differ, California runs half the height of the United States and has produced high teeners from N.Cal Shasta all the way to as far South as you can go. Ton of area for the right recipe to present itself. It doesn't take 15lbrs to win these tournaments, its access to a lot of good ones. The BS thing about the % thing is state records from places with tiny state records where a guy catches a 6 or 7 and hes already in the 60-70% range, not pointing fingers but nobody can compete with that, and its not even that big of a fish...... Then on the other end of the spectrum guys with access to a good amount of 8-12lb fish win monthly tournaments .....monthly..... Can't compare one fish to another fish regardless of location, my buddy moved to So-Cal and it took him about 4 hours on the water (probably half of which was texting and spacing off) before he caught his first Teener....TEENER, September.. and the day before had a DD + swipe a TT.. He fished on the back of my boat for a good 3-4 years and just earlier this year he caught the biggest fish I witnessed him catch in Oregon about a 7lbr. National big fish tournaments are pointless.

Nailed it.

Ok, guys, it's a good mold of a shad. That's all tho. I can't speak for the action of the bait, but the paintjob is absolutely nothing remarkable. How many steps are taken in this paint schedule after the base coat?? 3 maybe?! And by adding this picture, you only are proving my point again... Why not darken the pectoral fins??? That stands out right away when looking at the real shad! Why not take the time to do this? The amount of douche. Like an unreal level. Literally have never encountered a fisherman who was obviously so much more interested in how a bait looks than how it performs...... Can't buy that bait, theres not enough paint layering, pectoral fin darkening of course, no pectoral fin darkening, that will DEFINITELY deter any potential fish..... No picasso....HOLY EFF! Only thing you have going is your movie selection...

Ali owns all my rare baits....LOL

Casted off more swimbaits on 25#PF in 2 consecutive casts than I ever have with 20# Sniper, & PF isnt fluoro....... Which also coincides with the thread topic.

+1 keep in mind Shooters hardness when fishing, you should be fine but there's a solid amount of difference between sniper & shooter.

Good ish Jason!

I have one of those slider nets, I always keep it extended to its max length when fishing alone, I used to lose most of the fish at the boat during that awkward period where your rod is in the air behind you and you run out of steam and the fish stops about a foot short of the net. It saves my ass. But not everyone wants a 6'+ net laying around their boat.

First order of business I'd say is make sure your bank account is healthy..... That way when ish breaks, you won't have to wait so long to fix it that your "shits gonna break time window" doesn't elapse, and when some of this ish breaks, some of that ish doesn't break the moment the first ish got fixed ... I think its about every month or so..... Kidding, not kidding.

Everyone knows what fluoro I use, Sunline Sniper. It's thin, strong, reliable, casts well, transmits bottom hardness & other sensitivity aspects well. If you really want a further analysis about the topic, I suggest you all be really nice to "spectrum" Who knows a surprising amount about everything you'd expect noone to care to know about. Sorry Mike. If I run a leader with braid, that is fluoro, it is always over 10', I never pin my drags down also. Never broke off a swimmer fish on the hookset that I recall, I swing hard on most baits and usually run 6-7 power rods. I have broken off way more fish on mono, and casted off way more big baits in shorter trial periods. I landed my pb sb fish (10) on 20lb sniper, went back the next day throwing 25lb big game, and snapped off the first fish that bit.