brentmason

Mostly createx, after I was done painting I coated it with a couple of light coats of clear laquer, out of a spray can. It seems like it'll be fairly durable and will allow skin to flex. I've removed the skin a time or 2 and no problems. It kinda seems like the laquer helped the paint bond to the rubber, I've rubbed it pretty aggressively with my hands and it hasn't shown any signs of wear

Thanks for the comments, it's a fairly transparent paint job, it was a ghost ayu originally, I removed the skin on both head and tail sections, and put reflective tape on both but couldn't get it to show up in the picture, looks better in the sunlight

Just in a small pond, to get a since of what it looks like in the water, may try to make it out to a power plant lake tomorrow

Wanted my 175 to look a little more shadish, was a little hesitate about painting on the skin, but wasn't too bad, learned alot and don't think it turned out too bad.

3/4" , I only drilled about a 1/4" deep, maybe 5/16, I drilled another identically shaped hole about an 1/8" deep, after I poured lead in 1st hole, I'd place it upside down in 2nd hole to hold it while I removed the rough area on bottom with a file

Ok, so I'm new to this forum, fairly new to swimbaits, I've been fishing the Ozarks for 20 plus years and having a little bit of burn out lately,fishing the same ole techniques and tactics, and swimbaits really intrigue me. I've bought a couple of S wavers, slide swimmer 175s, and have made a couple of rats. I'm somewhat crafty, i do quit a bit of custom painting for a few local bait shops, mostly jerkbaits, topwaters and tis the season for wiggle warts around here. Anyway, I started messing with one of my slide swimmers the other day, wanting to play with the weights and adjust the rate of fall. I was somewhat surprised the damn weights are so hard to obtain, so I said screw it and would make my own. Really simple, need a block of wood, a 3/8" forestner drill bit and some hot lead. Forestner bit Use 3/8" bit to drill oblong hole in block of wood Pour lead into hole, you can adjust weight by how much lead you pour into hole, bottom of hole will be somewhat rough, so the bottom of weight will be as well, a few swipes with a file will take care of it and make it flat Here's finished product, fits almost perfect, and can adjust weights an infinite number of ways, and a hell of alot cheaper than tungsten and the factory weights