iboothroyd94

I used a resin ballast so that the bottom ~1/3 of the bait is pure resin with no microballoons (pure resin sinks like a brick), and the top 2/3 is the buoyant resin/microballoon mix That formula had it floating too heavy, so I drilled a hole and added lead to the belly in the front half of the bait, with the weight as close to the bottom of the belly without it being exposed So essentially part of the ballast is evenly distributed across the whole X axis and goes 1/3 up the Y axis, and the additional weight/ballast was added as low on the Y axis as it could go in the middle of the X axis

Yup lexan, I’ll give something softer a shot. This was the one that I was actually pretty happy with the stability, but all the pours afterwards blow out on a medium retrieve! Drives me crazy haha

Any advice on achieving stability at high speeds with a glide? I’ve dabbled with a couple glides here and there which I’ve been somewhat happy with - I can get good action at slow speeds which is how I normally fish, but most of the time they blow out at faster speeds. I made a new glide and guessed on the resin/weighting formula for a starting point and it came out absolutely perfect - barely floats/almost suspends, goes down 2-2.5ft when working it, can be worked slow or burned and stays stable (video attached). Since then I’ve poured 5 more out of the same mold with the exact same formula and some with a slightly tweaked formula, all of which either swim like complete dogshit or are okay on a slow retrieve but blow out on a moderate/fast retrieve! Is there something I’m missing here with glides when it comes to achieving stability ? I’ve tried bigger/smaller/no tail. Should I be adding alot more microballoons then countering it with alot more weight to get back to the same float/sink rate, or do the opposite and use less weight and less microballoons? Any tips of weight placement? (Closer to middle, closer to nose & tail, or just evenly distributed) Is there any aspects of the shape of the bait that contribute to better/worse stability? Any/all help appreciated! FullSizeRender.mov FullSizeRender.MOV

Nice meeting you man! This one wasn’t out of there, but once those water levels get back up we might be able to find one like this there, keep that place a secret!

Figured I’d share my PB from back in September going 7-15 and caught on the crawler I make (Biggy Crawls) in Massachusetts Incredibly blessed to run into a fish like this up here in New England and going to be real tough to beat and crack into that 8lb club, but I’ll get there eventually!

Remixed a couple Gillionaires for Halloween. Fun build and really happy with how they came out IMG_0990.MOV IMG_1007.MOV

Appreciate all of the info man. After talking with a few people, I think UV is the next route I’m going to give a shot!

Thanks brotha! If you don’t mind me asking, what are you typically using as a primer?

Personally I think TrueCoat is fantastic and when it works right it’s amazing and extremely durable. I definitely seem to be having more issues than most so I think it’s got to be something to do with my environment/process/paint/etc that it doesn’t like. There is some slight correlation with color - the all white baits really come out bad and the all black as well. But I’ve also painted a color scheme that has gone good for one batch and then didn’t work on a future batch so I’m not sure

Appreciate the thoughts man! That is one thing I haven’t necessarily tried - I don’t normally really apply hard contact and actually try to do the opposite as I don’t want to create air bubbles in the epoxy, so I will have to give that a shot!

Yup they’re are resin. At first I was epoxying within an hour after painting (I flash dry the paint with a hairdryer after each color) and figured that might be the problem. Ran a few tests waiting anywhere from 1-5 days after painting to apply the epoxy and still had the same issue unfortunately

Appreciate the input. I keep hearing people say contamination but I clean the baits before paint, wear nitril gloves, paint them, grab them by the hook hangers (still wearing nitril gloves) and put them right on the epoxy turner without anything touching the bait at all. I’m just not sure how the bait is getting “contaminated” and in some cases how the entire surface of the bait is getting “contaminated” !

Need some help with getting glassy smooth clear coats... Been struggling for months now. I use createx paint & truecoat epoxy (syringe measured for accuracy). I wear nitril gloves and nothing touches the baits between paint and epoxy. I’ve tried a using an “in-between” coat of polycrylic but all with the same results of the epoxy pulling away from random spots and/or pinholes. Have tried a very light coat (and multiple light coats) and the epoxy pulls away from spots Have tried a single heavy coat and can get the whole bait covered, but the epoxy lumps up and I end up with a wobbly uneven coat Have tried hitting them with a heat gun and with a small flame torch after applying the epoxy with no difference made All baits are on an epoxy turner. I run a dehumidifier. Temperatures not a problem right now as it’s summer. Sometimes out of the 4 baits I clearcoat at a time, just one or two will come out great, and the others will come out horrible. Sometimes all of them come out horrible. Any thoughts/ideas? I’m tempted to move to automotive clear coat but I work in a basement that doesn’t have the greatest ventilation and I know that stuff is toxic and usually has a long cure time. Thanks in Advance FullSizeRender.mov

It’s definitely an awesome feeling, thank you man! I haven’t been able to tie on any other baits because it’s just so much more rewarding getting bit on one I made

A few weekends ago I broke in my homemade wake “the Gillionaire” with its first fish and new PB for me. Last night it came in handy again and I broke that PB twice with a 6-0 followed by a 6-9. Amazing feeling. Now we are on the road to 7 IMG_8767.MOV