Clear Coating

[iboothroyd94]

9 hours ago, danthefisherman said:

Gotcha. I’m not really a materials expert, but from what I understand “fisheye” effect of curing epoxy is commonly caused by either substrate contamination or outgassing. I wouldn’t dismiss the resin curing as a potential factor. I will typically wait at the very least 24hrs for the resin itself to cure before I even think to prime it. Then I scrub the blank with a soap solution to remove any oils that have come to the surface. Fully dry, prime, fully dry, paint, fully dry, clear, fully dry, you get the picture…

I hope you find a solution. Happy building!

Thanks brotha! If you don’t mind me asking, what are you typically using as a primer?

[morgantm16]

Unfortunately as clean as you try to be with your builds, it doesn't take much... Obviously like checking the straight forward stuff, clean hands with gloves, fully letting the baits off gas, coats dry, things of that nature.  Oil is a big one, just being in the same work environment, so if anything in that area could be oily, all its going to take is a microscopic amount to come in contact with your bait to mess up your clear. Are you using a mold release?? If you are really clean those things good, but I clean with a good degreasing soap and also alcohol, and then let dry all over again before moving on. Tail making materials in the same space could be an issue as far as contamination. All that I think has been said, and if addressing all that still doesn't solve things, it may not be so easy of a fix.  Next I would try switch clear coats and see if you get better compatibility between layers.  If that's still not solving it, I'd say its still contamination but not as simple of a fix.

I don't think its been mentioned, but at this point if you ducks are all in a row on all of that, your contamination could be coming from you compressor/air lines/spray gun... I don't know what you are using for compressor, or if its oil free, but if you get a little leak of oil in your compressor it can contaminate your bait as you are spraying. Not the cheapest fix or thing to check, so I'd do that last, but a possibility that I don't think has been mentioned. I would think you'd be seeing the problem on all your baits if that was the case though.  I would definitely go to the extremes to get my baits to off gas, dry/cure, keep them clean, and in a contaminate free area and switch up clear coats first.

[iboothroyd94]

10 hours ago, Inkedup fishing said:

I have tried plenty of things to try and clear baits! I've brought auto clear home from work, spayed it dipped it brushed it and after all the re sanding I come to hate it!!!!!! I've tried epoxy. It's heavy it can be to thick it dose not level that great. Don't like it that much.

There is literally only 2 types of clear I will use after all my troubles.

KBS DIMOND COAT. WORKS GREAT!! SUGEST YOU USE A PIG TURNER!!

LAST BUT NOTEAST.  UV RESIN. I SUGEST IF YOU DO THIS ONE MAKE A BOX WITH ATLEAST 2 LIGHTS. IT WILL GIVE YOU FULL COVERAGE. MAKE SURE YOU BRUSH THE WHOLE BAIT BEDOR FLASHING!!

Appreciate all of the info man. After talking with a few people, I think UV is the next route I’m going to give a shot!

[morgantm16]

Looking at the fins you're using, I'd definitely recommend keeping all of that stuff away and if different spaces that where you do you resin work and not doing your tails at the same time so that you're not even handling them around the same time and bringing contamination from them to your resin area.  I'd just deal with pouring tails at a completely different time and space.

[danthefisherman]

4 hours ago, iboothroyd94 said:

Thanks brotha! If you don’t mind me asking, what are you typically using as a primer?

For resin baits I use any aerosolized paint/primer base that is compatible with my airbrush paint. You’ll find that certain brands sometimes don’t like to adhere to one another, or at least that’s my experience. Keep experimenting until you find an affordable combination that works for you.

[HandCraftedLureCo]

One thing I haven't heard mentioned is how you apply the epoxy. I had the same issue with epoxy until I did one of two things. Use a brush and make sure the epoxy is brushed onto every square inch of the bait. If you let the epoxy flow over the bait it pulls back away. The other method I used was to apply epoxy with my finger using rubber gloves. As long as there was no oil on the baits and I touched it all it would look good.

UV resin is where I ended up. Once you get past the learning curve with UV which is minimal it is pretty trouble free.

[Inkedup fishing]

On 8/11/2022 at 3:22 PM, danthefisherman said:

For resin baits I use any aerosolized paint/primer base that is compatible with my airbrush paint. You’ll find that certain brands sometimes don’t like to adhere to one another, or at least that’s my experience. Keep experimenting until you find an affordable combination that works for you.

I definitely think that's 100 percent true. That's why with airbrush paint I always run with on brand. If I want to introduce anything other then what I was using after I already laid paint on the bait I put a very thin clear on the bait and I never have a problem when I do that. As far as painting with the tail and stuff on I do not I repeat I do not do that. At some point in time there can be a cross contamination. If you have the fins on and you try to paint or put clear on it very well can have a chemical reaction! I have done it somany times when I started makeing baits and not understanding the chemicals I was using. Now I do a ton of research on everything I buy or am looking into for future builds. I am always looking for new products new things that are going to help try to set me apart or be ahead of everything that is going on in the bait game. Even though I am a small builder and not well known I try and keep the mindset that everyone wants them and they have to be perfect so I do asmuch research and prep work as I can. I worked in a body shop for a second job and learned so.uch about paint and prep and how much it is so important to prep prep and KEEP CLEAN EVERYTHING CLEAN!!!!! I would get yelled at for opening the prep room door because of the small particulets in the air can make such a dramatic problem in a good paint job! 

Sorry for the rambling on but it's the truth. I know it's hard for small guys to have such a workshop ro where they have all they need but if you want good product you have to make separate spots to do difrent things. Just because we can't see the crap dose not mean it's not all over the place.

[Inkedup fishing]

28 minutes ago, HandCraftedLureCo said:

One thing I haven't heard mentioned is how you apply the epoxy. I had the same issue with epoxy until I did one of two things. Use a brush and make sure the epoxy is brushed onto every square inch of the bait. If you let the epoxy flow over the bait it pulls back away. The other method I used was to apply epoxy with my finger using rubber gloves. As long as there was no oil on the baits and I touched it all it would look good.

UV resin is where I ended up. Once you get past the learning curve with UV which is minimal it is pretty trouble free.

Uv is the way to go! Make a flash box and you are set! 

I use that and KBS DIMOND COAT. And that stuff is right up there with the UV RESIN. Get decent paint brushes. If there semi long I cut them down so there alittle stiffer. That's what I found works the best. And defenetly pull on the bristles before dipping it you will get stragglers that pull out!!!!