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Does the tail come out? If so, just soak it in really hot water for a minute then put it on a flat surface with a book or something heavy and flat on top of it. Should be fine by the morning.

I have found swimshotting works better than a c-rig.

If you're a veteran, you can buy direct from Dobyns for 30% off.

Tracking Trophies is the book that had the biggest positive influence on my ability to consistently put big bass in the boat.

The best way to spend $75 is to get three Shine Glides.

Thank you very much for sharing this.

Calling Ceaser Chavez: Sluts! Sluts! Sluts!

Hedgehog Studio makes an aluminum drag star for the Tatula HD. Be sure to look at the diagrams for the correct installation. Took me few minutes to figure it out (you remove the spring and don't use it). https://www.hedgehog-studio.co.jp/ That code seems to work for just about anything that seller has. I already have a stack of regular Tatulas and HDs so I got an SV (long cast) version. Code worked fine.

Exactly the right approach.

Fantastic reels. I have three regular 200 HDs and one Mago. They cast beautifully and have a great drag system.

Most of the time, I am throwing my 250s on a Kago 300 with #20 P-F Original (co-poly). I have used my Tatula Mago for them a few times, with #20 Sniper.

That's all I've ever used for 250s. I don't get why guys use rope with them. Just smothers the action. No reason for it.

I have not fished the new ones but they sure look good. The paint is on-point. If they walk as good as they look, we're back in business.

908 is a great rod for the Mother. Lexa 300 is a bit under-sized. I usually use a Revo Toro Beast 60 but I also throw it on a Kago 300. Here is a great video on the kind of gear that works with a Mother: Also, I think there are some old threads on here about gear for Mothers. IIRC, Travis did one.

This. I don't understand why people are using heavy line on small baits. For glides in that size range, I use #16 Sniper FC.

I have not used either size Tranx but a couple of my friends have them. They look like they are pretty compact, so I would go for the 400 size if it seems comfortable to you. It's not just about line capacity -- with a bigger spool, you get more consistency in your retrieve speed because having any given amount of line out makes a smaller percentage difference in the spool diameter. But, I think you will be fine with either.

Bullshooter 160 = #1s

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You don't need any special torque to work a glide bait. I used 7:1 and 8:1 reels when I was punching and pulling big bass up through 18-20 feet of hydrilla. I had no trouble winching them (and giant wads of hydrilla) up. It's just a lure. I've thrown SS250s on my 8:1 Mago and it worked fine. My usual Deps reel is a 6.3:1 Kago. You will appreciate a higher gear ratio when you have to pick up line because you are working the bait quickly. There is no real benefit to a lower gear ratio in this situation and a definite benefit to having a higher one.

They are $150 on eBay. BPS and TW are expensive places to buy reels.

I have heard that some people put a small willow leaf blade on Punkers as an accent. Do any of y'all do that? If so, what size do you use and which hook hanger to you put it on? The stock feathered treble hooks on mine get destroyed after a striper or two (all the stock hooks end up getting replaced fairly quickly) and I was thinking of hanging a small blade off the back instead of feathers. I figure a little more flash never hurts. I thought I'd use something like this:

There are several aspects to correctly tuning an SS50. The internal weights are the most obvious and are usually where I start. This will set the rate of fall and the attitude (level, nose-up, nose-down) of the bait when it sits in the water. You can also fine-tune the rate of fall by swapping out the hardware. For minor adjustments to the weight, led golf tape is perfect. It sits flat under the skin and the glue will last many years. You can also put a small piece in the bill slot if you just need the nose to sit a bit lower. The way the skin sits on the front segment will have an impact on how much room the bait has to turn at the joint. With the skin as far forward as it goes, they rear segment can turn farther out before hitting the protrusions on the side. Sliding it back, gives it less room. Generally, I leave it so the front sits in the depression at the front of the bait. The geometry of the joint is also important. Make sure the bait hangs completely straight when you hold it vertically. The pins can get bent and that will affect how it swims. Also, the eyes on the pins need to be the right distance from the body. As you can imagine, it is very easy to have them a turn or half a turn off from the proper length and not notice it. I have a set of gauges (made of cut toothpicks) that I use to make sure the eyes are the right distance out from the body. They are two different lengths. If you have an OG that swims particularly well, use it's joint to make a set of gauges and you can use them to check all the rest of your baits. my .02

I've only tried a couple of the Arashi baits but I was not impressed. They didn't seem anywhere near the quality level of the better Japanese tackle brands.