JR Basser

Donated for a good cause, hope it goes to a good home!

Sharpie is ok for a quick temporary fix on a leader's length, but it'll fade off pretty quickly. Best thing I've used is dye, spike it makes some good stuff, but I'm pretty sure any old dye from Walmart will do the same thing. Or just get Sunline and not have to worry about it for at least a whole season,, best color retention I've found on a braid so far

Drill holes and add weight. Basically how a bait maker does them from the get go. I've done numerous that be turned out great. My advice, figure out how much weight before you drill, can tape or rubber band small segments on belly, adjust where needed amount/location, then depending on length and thickness of weight, decide depth and diameter of the hole. Epoxy in, bondo or epoxy flush, then paint over to match. Personally, my baits are tools to me, not shelf decor,, so if they're not showpieces when I'm done, or lose that fan boy originality, I'm not worried about it. But they usually end up looking and functioning great,, good luck

I couldn't see going bigger than a sz 3, any bigger may mess with the action. That's where I'd start at least

I throw baits in the 4.5 oz range no prob wit my 301s, and have thrown a 250 just fine but prefer a higher GR. For larger heavier baits I'd recommend a 400 sz, but again I prefer low pro reels for those. I speak from my own experience, catch plenty of fish with the setups I'm running, if it defies what the plump guy on the vid says to do, oh well. I fish from a boat and make relatively short casts for the fish I target, reels are not a one sz fits all tool. So for Mr. Capecodlunkerhunter, to answer your question, neither is "better", you'll likely end up getting both sizes if you're a junkie like the rest of us

Just purchased a rod from Sloegoe, stand up guy, , very responsive and fast smooth shipping! Rod arrived safe, and in better condition than described! I'd absolutely do more business with him

I have a couple 301s, I prefer the narrower body for better palming, imo, there's no performance dif to the 400 sz, I've had them both and have never ran into a situation where the 300 sz lacked in line capacity. I like the round design better for continuous retrieve baits like wakes or A-rigs, and lean towards a higher speed low-pro tranx or curado for glides and punker type baits. As far as quality, the conquest is as good as it gets.

^^^ I agree w Nick, Two completely different applications, and the same rod wouldn't do both correctly imo. I prefer my negs and other comparable weighted glides on a 4 or 5 pwr, with more of a parabolic taper,, whereas my hudds and large softies on more of a rigid 6 or even 7 pwr., especially if I'm working a hudd near bottom or where feel for structure is important.

^^^ That's what I'm thinking. A 12# largie single sided should be no more than $600... I've got three of them being done, all for less than $2k

The shape, length, joint gap, and weight are all factors of how a bait's going to glide. A shorter lighter bait won't have as wide of a glide as a longer heavier bait like a 250. Think kinetic energy. A shorter less tall bait like a neg may not have a sweeping glide, but can be worked with a very enticing walk the dog erratic action bigger baits often don't have. You're going to end up with all types if you stay in the game long enough like the rest of us. That's just all part of the sickness. But as far as priority, I'd start with something that's more particular to your area. Like don't buy a huge trout type bait just cause you saw some guy in SoCal post a pic of one with a fish, but something that resembles forage in your area more so. Not that baits don't get eaten in different places universally. Start with something that's very user friendly, good castability, and something you'll be able to stick with for a while. Personally, I've been using a Sly 6" perch type glide more than anything lately. Has a very manageable weight, decent tighter glide and great erratic action. It's been a great producer I can fish a variety of ways, and doesn't wear me out,, best part is the $60 price tag! Start with something like that or a 175, neg, waiver,, then move up to a lil heavier bait.

I bought a Fish Arrow in 03', 2pc glide bait. Still have it, fishes ok, been repainted several times over the years. Maybe that'll help in your history research

Probably got sued... or threatened to sue, like the rest

I have an hds 9 Gen 3 and elite 7 non touch, I use the Gen 3 as a dedicated charting unit, and the elite just for the sonar, side by side. The biggest difference is going to be in your charting capabilities. As far as sonar, they have same technology, both are HDI compatible. You can also add the LSS side view to the Gen 3, but honestly I never use mine. I'd personally go with the Gen 3 if it's going to be your only unit, maybe add a dedicated sonar unit later like I did. Hope this helps

I'm a Shimano guy, throw my big glides with a Tranx 301HG,, plenty of line capacity, no complaints!

Another flawless transaction with Mack/"Big Hungry" I'd absolutely do business with him again!

^^^ Agreed on the rod tip low. Keeping the tip low not only diminishes jumping, but also it helps keep pressure where it needs to be. When a fish jumps and the tip is high, the tension of the rod is reduced, the fish gets slack in the line to help him throw the hooks, the less line out, and the greater chance you'll likely lose the fish. Not trying to sound like an expert, but unfortunately I've lost more than my damn share of quality fish to have figured it out, and still do... that's why it happens at the net often in a boat, the netter comes from below, and if the rod gets high sticked while fish is jumping or thrashing around, they're gone. That's why "steering" the fish when it's close is do important, keeping tension in the right direction as much as possible. Sometimes you may have to switch directions several times before landing, essentially pulling the fish towards where you're trying to land it. Being on the shore I'm sure has it's own challenges. At least you're getting bites and hooking up, that's one part of the game you can check off!

I've had my best luck with a 7" standard in dark rainbow, fishing it up close to wind blown cover, tule lines, cranked slightly under the surface. Although it's been a lil while since I've been on that bite, it was flat out deadly when it was on, several bags over 20lbs. Jimmy Reese won an FLW I was fishing in with an AC minnow in similar conditions, he revealed he'd let the baits soak for days/weeks to try and get them water logged to help dive subsurface a bit better. Great post spawn tactic!