Jake Carroll

I’m in the exact same situation in South Carolina. In my experience, a stock 250 isn’t meant to fish in 30-40 ft. Fluoro is a must for that depth & really any 250 in general. If you want it to stay down that deep, I’d say adding weight is the solution. 1gram makes a noticeable difference, so something like Zappu board weights could work, or even upsizing the split rings or hooks slightly could get it down a little faster but not ruin the sink rate you want. As for the slow straight retrieve, that’s how the bait has been to me. It definitely has a speed threshold you have to reach if you’re doing a straight retrieve. Whenever I fish them deep, I always start reeling it fairly fast to get it off the bottom & start gliding, then slow down from there. Hope that helps

I got some 250s that I would like to get wrapped by someone that knows what they’re doing. I’ve seen some work from DeFeesha/DeeFeesha, and I’m super impressed. I’m wondering if he’s still actively doing wraps/paint jobs. I went back & looked through posts with his name here, on Facebook & Instagram & didn’t see anything super recent. If anyone who’s had something done by him knows the best way to contact, it would be much appreciated

Those standard yellow eyes can be bought in replacement packs of I think 8 or 10 from Japanese sites. They might have some of the rainbow/crystal looking ones as well. I know those orange-ish/brown ones on Pro-blue and the newer Butch Brown colors are impossible to find replacements for

For anyone who has done SK to SS conversions with the new models, how did you deal with the tail weight being locked in the ABS instead of floating in the tail? I bought a couple new model SKs not realizing the difference of tail weight placement from the old ones, so I'm wondering if it's worth my time to try to convert them. I would think the swim wouldn't be that great with weight stuck in the tail. I know you could counterbalance it by putting more weight up front, but I'm not looking for a faster sinking bait.