azfisher

Thanks Stu, appreciate all the help!!

Nice one, congrats!!

Congrats!!

I've had that happen when the paint was a thick coat and not completely dry underneath. After the clear started to set up, it started cracking...this was a KBS dipped bait

What they said and try keeping your rodtip up, 10-11 oclock will help keep it from diving some...

Looks good, go get em'!

I have the Comfortrol Origional tray, was like $119 when I got it. Made all the difference in the world for me when fishing all day, saves your hips especially. My MG pedal sits level with the floor in the tray, so just slide your foot over and good to go. I even had enough room inside the tray to put a couple self-tapping screws on the inside, one to the front and one towards the back. Hook a short bungee between them and I stick my sent bottles and line conditioner on the inside side of the tray, holds them in place well. I don't know if they all have a drain plugs, the one I got did, they will collect a lot of water, hope any of this helps...

I have those in 3/4 inch, plenty to spare. Happy to send you a dozen or two to get you going, LMK

Great version of that colorway, looks killer!!

Agree with both above. If you need a visual reference I believe both Manny Chee and Mike Gilbert have done Youtube videos on how to reel down and set the hook on bigger soft plastics. I know what I'm supposed to do to hook those fish and I still jump the gun more than I'd care to admit...

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I've used Spraymax 1K clear for 250's and they have held up pretty well. I haven't used it on a hard bait tho and wear a respirator, it's bad. The spraycan has lasted a couple years without plugging up or "Going off". I like the Rustoleum for clearing a bait with flat finish but like everyone else has, I F'd up that bait and others when they come in contact with each other. I got one still a little gummy after a couple years from Rustoleum.

Agree with Ian on soft baits and will add try wake baits at night and in low light conditions or Carolina rig a low float gill bait or an rof 0 hudd

I'm assuming that was made on a 3d printer. Does that material float? If the bait floats, I would drill and fill some weight in the bottom of the bait. That will help with vertical stability and lesson the roll. Always keep your weight lower than the vertical midline of the bait, lower 1/3 is best. Joint spacing can play a part in creating roll. If the joint is too tight and it looks like the tail section seems to want to push the front section, the front can't reach it's full range of motion side to side, then tends to want to roll some or porpoise. If the bait sinks now, made sure both sections sink at the same rate when not attached together. This helps create a more fluid swim as the hinges will bind less. Make sure the joint hardware is aligned correct, if one of the screw eyes is off it can bind and create an ugly swim. Move the line tie up or down and see how it effects the baits swim. Many times it's just a combination of all these adjustments to get the best swim out of a bait or what you want out the swim. Bait bodies need to be hydrodynamic, so look at how far your fins and gill plates stick out from the sides of the bait. Are they catching water and creating turbulance down the sides on the bait? Hope some of this helps, take notes on the effects of all the changes you make so you refer back to them. Bait looks great, keep it up!

Thank you, look forward to meeting you once you arrive in hell, I mean AZ!!

Nice ones James!! Choked that gill!!

Try contacting Adam at American Legacy, he's hooked me up with good prices Dobyns stuff.

I use a table saw, when the wood is still square. My blade is 1/8 inch wide so it cuts a nice slot for standard polycarbonate.

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/332112092152?hash=item4d536c5bf8:g:tu4AAOSwgOZgZZQU These are what I use for my old Hero 3 and 3+. Plug them into a usb port/cig plug and run them all day in the looping mode. I also have a Yolotek powerstick that plugs into a stern light outlet to run the back camera. I put a dedicated stern light outlet in mine, right in the center, in front of the big motor, just for the Gopro. You have to run a skeleton door on the back of the camera or drill a hole/slot big enough to get the usb plug thru. I just put a piece of duct tape over that to seal it for rain. Batteries suck, head and chest mounts seem to get in the way. You can but a whole set of different mounts on Ebay for about $20

I used to use dropshot weights. The ones I was getting were the cylinder style weights and the 1/4 oz weights were 1/4 inch in diameter, drill a 5/16 hole and insert as much as you need. You can cut the weights with a stong pair of wire cutters to size. Can be installed vertically or horizontally, get them down low, epoxy them in, hope this helps