Jump to content

azfisher

Members
  • Posts

    1,076
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by azfisher

  1. That should work well. Maybe a little too much coverage? Just guessing now
  2. I've never used that brand of epoxy, but most epoxies tend to pull back or thin out around squared corners and sharp details as it cures. I'm perplexed by your "Hanging form a spinner", comment. Maybe a pic of the baits on the spinner could help figure out the "Runs" issue. I used Devcon 2 Ton epoxy, and mixed with a 10 grams of A, to 9 grams of B ratio, and just mixed up what I needed for the amount of baits I was clearing. With the D2T, I would mix in a few drops of de-natured alcohol after mixing the epoxy. This would thin the epoxy slightly and I would be able to get a few extra minutes of work time before it started to set up. The de-natured alcohol would also help dissipate the bubbles generated from mixing. Hope this helps...
  3. Don is a great guy to deal with, love Swimbait City!
  4. I'm still in thinking mode...
  5. Check out some of Engineered Angler's vids on Youtube. He's done some on resin ratios and how to ballast and weight placement. We all tend to do things a little different, so there's no one way that's right. I use Smooth-On products and still have a couple 5 gal buckets of Alumalite's micro balloons that I bought before they quit carrying them. Usually, lead shot goes where it wants, not where you want and makes dimples where it contacts the mold material. My .02...
  6. Are you offering to run it? You know what a bunch of whiny bitches us fisherman/bait builders can be!! I'd probably throw in...
  7. ChefChris turned me onto the hole in the lip trick!
  8. I've always used Dev-Con 2 Ton 30 minute epoxy, haven't had many issues with eyescrews , had a few lips come out tho. Fixed that by drilling a couple small holes in the lip where it rides in the slot so the epoxy goes thru the lip. The 5 min Devcon isn't waterproof.
  9. I've had good luck in my area during the rain/rising water conditions. If fishing a developed lake at night, target the campground areas and the individual boat slips around the shoreline camps. Always rodents around campgrounds at night, especially if there's a picnic table and trash can near the waters edge. I do best tight to shoreline cover, tree lay downs and along tules. Baby Possum gets crushed
  10. Some underwater swim footage... Hard pass for me
  11. Baby Possum gets bit really well, but tends to fish heavy. Make sure you have an appropriate rod. Throw rats in the rain...
  12. Don't know if it has changed or not, but in the past Lowrance won't fix anything. They offer a discount on a new item. That's what happened to a couple guys I knew at the time...
  13. For me it's not about the length of each section but the weight. On a glide each half needs to sink or low float at the same rate when they're not attached together. Each section needs to sink or low float, level or the joint can bind from side to side and or from top to bottom. Make sure if you're using screw eyes that they are tight and level and the pin has a little play inside them so they don't hang up on each other. Check to make sure part of the body in the joint area isn't hanging up somewhere. Check to see if the screw eye's are rubbing the body in the eye pocket. Glidebait swim issues are usually related to the joint area. My .02, hope this helps... Pics would help, with the bait together and the sections apart
  14. G2 Shellcracker has done a lot of damage for a pretty small swimbait...
  15. Don't know, I was like Dan, kind of wondering where he had disappeared to and saw he'd been excused from class. Maybe he said DRT in vain
  16. I wouldn't wait for a response from the OP, he was banned about a year ago...
  17. I know you're after stripers so not sure how relevant this info will be but he goes... I've had a number of different A-rigs over the years but the best swimming one was a homemade one from a guy in my area. It was made with piano wire. No idea of the lb strength or diameter and I believe it was a stranded wire. I'll be the first to admit the wire was not strong enough to be durable over the long run. But in the short term it was the best action wise of any I've ever seen. The piano wire gave the baits the same fluid look that a darting school of baitfish has just from bumping the reel handle as it was swimming. Bump the handle while reeling and the baits would speed up and come together like spooked bait does and then spread back out some. Gave it a great erratic movement as opposed to the more ridged wire that just kind of swims along. The piano wire really flexed awesome. Made the baits dart like a nail weighted fluke on light line. It fished like a donkey rig but with 5 baits. This rig just had the wires kind of folded over each other and crimped together in the head with a little lead and a line tie and some heatshrink over the head with a glue on eye. It was totally rednecked together build wise and I wound up breaking one of the wires eventually. But before that it caught alot of really nice 5-6 lb fish and got me big fish $$ a number of times in our bass club TMX, until the BASS rule of no A-rigs. Caught numerous doubles on it and had two for just under 13 lbs once. If I were going to make some I would try at least a couple with a really flexible wire, just stronger, just because of that experience. I bought the Original A-rig from Paul Elias at the 2013 Classic in Tulsa and that wire broke also and it was quite ridged. Good luck with your project, stripers tear ish up!
  18. Great price on a beast of a reel...GLWS
  19. Search Engineered Angler on Youtube, he's made a couple baits using this joint method,
  20. Nice carving, takes a steady hand and a good eye!!
×
×
  • Create New...