New Style Deps Silent Killer to SS

[Bigbassking925]

Hey guys, back here again. 

 

I have converted my new style Silent Killer to a SS and am in the works of tuning it. That said, I notice its weighted different than my other SS. The middle body weight seems to be larger, thus having the center of mass in the middle of the bait (not like my SS which is nose down). I cant seem to remove the weights either since they are glued in super well or are even part of the mold?? I've weighted the front to compensate for the heavy middle weight (to get a nose down fall), but feel i've made the bait much heavier. Anyone run into this problem? If so, how do you fix/tune a new style convert? 

 

Thanks for any help this gets! 

[dylan628]

use a knife or something to shave the lead down to what you want, I have found that a horizontal fall will bring the best swimming results. 

[azfisher]

Maybe this can help you. Good luck with your project!

[hookedup]

You can also use a drill and drill holes in the weight to lighten it.

[Tony91723]

You can also use a drill and drill holes in the weight to lighten it.

I was thinking a Dremel with a carbide type bit.

[thedonnguyen]

those weights are really in there...you gotta wedge them out with a screw driver...when i took mine out, sounded like the bait was cracking

[Bigbassking925]

Thanks for the tips guys. Still working on it. Planning on shaving some weight off the middle weight. But still curious to hear if anyone has been successful on a new style conversion? If so, any tips on getting the right swim?  

[Delawhere?]

I have converted four of the new SK’s. It’s a head trip the first time cutting into a hundred dollar bait! Know that this bait isn’t as user friendly as the OG was and only proceed if your willing to gamble screwing up and eating the loss. Too many have tried passing their mistakes on to unknowing others thinking they were getting a “dealâ€.

 

All of the baits I have done were the rise ups and had a small weight in the rear, so the back skin had to come off which is glued on. Or you can cut a small slit by the anal vent. A butter knife works pretty well for me to get the skin off but I still usually scratch the foil some. The bass don’t care, and neither do I. I don’t sell guns or swimbaits.

 

For removing the weights I used a Dremel with a carbide tip. The weight material is some alloy that’s pretty hard, so you have to take care not overheating the plastic shell. I had one take on water after a few months of use that I attribute to this. I was able to repair it with 2ton epoxy after I got it dried out by using an air compressor to blow the moisture out.

 

For the lips, one popped out just prying with pliers, but the other three wouldn’t budge and needed cut off and filed out to where you want it. I tape off the chin to avoid scratching the paint.

 

For adding weight I use tungsten putty for the rear hole and a little in the front hole spread along the bottom. This usually gets it pretty close to a low float bait. Next I hammer flat some lead split shots or .22 cal pellets. Now I put the bait back together and go out to my pool or a clear body of water. The weights are thin and can be slid under the chin until you get a horizontal ROF that you like.

 

If you have any questions I’m happy to help anyway I can man

[Bigbassking925]

I have converted four of the new SK’s. It’s a head trip the first time cutting into a hundred dollar bait! Know that this bait isn’t as user friendly as the OG was and only proceed if your willing to gamble screwing up and eating the loss. Too many have tried passing their mistakes on to unknowing others thinking they were getting a “dealâ€.

 

All of the baits I have done were the rise ups and had a small weight in the rear, so the back skin had to come off which is glued on. Or you can cut a small slit by the anal vent. A butter knife works pretty well for me to get the skin off but I still usually scratch the foil some. The bass don’t care, and neither do I. I don’t sell guns or swimbaits.

 

For removing the weights I used a Dremel with a carbide tip. The weight material is some alloy that’s pretty hard, so you have to take care not overheating the plastic shell. I had one take on water after a few months of use that I attribute to this. I was able to repair it with 2ton epoxy after I got it dried out by using an air compressor to blow the moisture out.

 

For the lips, one popped out just prying with pliers, but the other three wouldn’t budge and needed cut off and filed out to where you want it. I tape off the chin to avoid scratching the paint.

 

For adding weight I use tungsten putty for the rear hole and a little in the front hole spread along the bottom. This usually gets it pretty close to a low float bait. Next I hammer flat some lead split shots or .22 cal pellets. Now I put the bait back together and go out to my pool or a clear body of water. The weights are thin and can be slid under the chin until you get a horizontal ROF that you like.

 

If you have any questions I’m happy to help anyway I can man

Wow thanks for the info! Just to be clear, you are removing all the weights in the body and adding tungsten putty?

[Delawhere?]

Yes, it’s a pain because the weight is pretty hard like some wheel weights. You have to be careful like I said about heating it up too much or your Dremel bit jumping out of the hole and cracking the plastic body. Then I fill the rear cavity with pure lead ponded into shape or tungsten putty which I find to be easier. Every bats different so I don’t have specific weights to give. Just got to do some trial and air to get it where you like it. I also switch the silver owner trebles with 2/0 st36 on the front and a 1/0 on the back