clear coats

[_zoso]

I've been using kbs diamond in a rattle can for my wood baits. recently picked up some rustoleum rattle cans and put a few coats on as well as 3-4 clear coats reapplying when dry to the touch. sat for a day after to cure. after fishing with my bait i got some paint chips after a few hours.  wondering if the problem was on my end regarding cure time/recoat time and how i should go about fixing this

[SVT THUNDER]

Did you scuff and prep your baits with any kind of adhesion promoter or sealer primer? Sounds like a paint adhesion issue honestly. Paint shouldn’t chip or flake off. Rash up and get scratched off eventually yes. But flaking and chipping it almost always due to poor adhesion. The last coat of clear is only as strong as your first base coat. I spray Auto paints and Auto Urethane. But I use a waterbase sealer primer after scuffing baits (Autoborne) and just build up light coats until I have solid coverage. Then start spraying paint once it’s dry. 

 

[_zoso]

25 minutes ago, SVT THUNDER said:

Did you scuff and prep your baits with any kind of adhesion promoter or sealer primer? Sounds like a paint adhesion issue honestly. Paint shouldn’t chip or flake off. Rash up and get scratched off eventually yes. But flaking and chipping it almost always due to poor adhesion. The last coat of clear is only as strong as your first base coat. I spray Auto paints and Auto Urethane. But I use a waterbase sealer primer after scuffing baits (Autoborne) and just build up light coats until I have solid coverage. Then start spraying paint once it’s dry. 

 

I didnt do any sort of prep sounds like thats probably my issue once i carved the bait i sealed with super glue then got to painting. What do you suggest i use?

[SVT THUNDER]

59 minutes ago, _zoso said:

I didnt do any sort of prep sounds like thats probably my issue once i carved the bait i sealed with super glue then got to painting. What do you suggest i use?

Once your wood is sealed, just scuff it lightly with a red scotchbrite pad and if you don’t have an airbrush to spray Autoborne, just buy a can of duplicolor adhesion promoter and follow the directions. I’ve never used super glue to seal wood personally. So maybe test a on a small piece of scrap wood that’s got a layer of superglue on it however you use it like you do on baits. Hit it with the adhesion promoter and then paint. Not all rattle can paints are going to be compatible with some clears. Most rustoleum is enamel based which can cause issues with some auto clears. I know KBS is a moisture cure and can be finicky. If you are going to use rattle cans only, I’d recommend duplicolor spray cans for paint if rustoleum wrinkles or separates. Duplicolor is thin and not too expensive compared to other auto paints in cans. But it’s an auto paint. I have used that in the past in airbrushes by simply spraying it into a ziplock and cutting the corner to fill my cup. Never had any issues with Auto Urethane clear over it. Hope this makes sense man. 

[_zoso]

20 minutes ago, SVT THUNDER said:

Once your wood is sealed, just scuff it lightly with a red scotchbrite pad and if you don’t have an airbrush to spray Autoborne, just buy a can of duplicolor adhesion promoter and follow the directions. I’ve never used super glue to seal wood personally. So maybe test a on a small piece of scrap wood that’s got a layer of superglue on it however you use it like you do on baits. Hit it with the adhesion promoter and then paint. Not all rattle can paints are going to be compatible with some clears. Most rustoleum is enamel based which can cause issues with some auto clears. I know KBS is a moisture cure and can be finicky. If you are going to use rattle cans only, I’d recommend duplicolor spray cans for paint if rustoleum wrinkles or separates. Duplicolor is thin and not too expensive compared to other auto paints in cans. But it’s an auto paint. I have used that in the past in airbrushes by simply spraying it into a ziplock and cutting the corner to fill my cup. Never had any issues with Auto Urethane clear over it. Hope this makes sense man. 

awesome thanks man i dont have an airbrush yet i plan to at some point but im gonna pick up a can of the adhesion promoter and test this on my next bait. thanks a lot for the help much appreciated

[SacPig916]

18 minutes ago, _zoso said:

awesome thanks man i dont have an airbrush yet i plan to at some point but im gonna pick up a can of the adhesion promoter and test this on my next bait. thanks a lot for the help much appreciated

SVT pretty much covered it!  Make sure you arent going beyond like 250-300 grit when you sand that glue off.  I had this exact issue a long time ago and it was because I was using 1000grit

[_zoso]

6 minutes ago, SacPig916 said:

SVT pretty much covered it!  Make sure you arent going beyond like 250-300 grit when you sand that glue off.  I had this exact issue a long time ago and it was because I was using 1000grit

awesome got a bait in the works now ill put these tips to use and hopefully it holds up good thanks guys

[Mason]

I also wash my baits off with dish soap before I paint. Rinse them well and try not to touch them with bare fingers until my final clear coat is cured. Natural oils from your hands can cause paint to not stick. So can painting too thick of layers. I had issues with that before I started airbrushing. 

Edited September 26, 2021 by Mason

[_zoso]

1 hour ago, Mason said:

I also wash my baits off with dish soap before I paint. Rinse them well and try not to touch them with bare fingers until my final clear coat is cured. Natural oils from your hands can cause paint to not stick. So can painting too thick of layers. I had issues with that before I started airbrushing. 

So after i seal and sand the glue, then wash before adhesion promotor?

 

[Mason]

Yeah. I use cheap to cafeteria gloves to hold it once I wash it. Until after I’ve finished clear coating it. This bait had too many layers painted too quickly so they bottom one stuck to the bait but there wasn’t any adherence between coats and it peeled. 

[_zoso]

48 minutes ago, Mason said:

Yeah. I use cheap to cafeteria gloves to hold it once I wash it. Until after I’ve finished clear coating it. This bait had too many layers painted too quickly so they bottom one stuck to the bait but there wasn’t any adherence between coats and it peeled. 

Awesome appreciate the info ill pick up some of those gloves too hope it comes out good on the next bait nothin worse than spending the time painting/clear coating to have the paint chip right off lol