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Slammer modifications


NEbucketmouth19
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Has anyone ever modified a slammer to get it to dive down deeper? I got thinking and thought it might be possible to drill some holes and add weight to get it to more of a heavy-float so that it would drank-down easier and get a little deeper for cranking weedlines and such. But I don't know what it would do to the action of the bait. 

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Mike sells a cranker but it only gets down a foot or two. I luv em.....but Dare to play with line tie to create a cranker. Search archive I posted an idea from a Japanese sber about that....but honestly I would not add weight to em. Ones that crank seem to have the wood density allowing em to do it. 

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Yes you can add weight to em, you can add weight just to the front section or have to both sections depending on what you want it to do, as far as suspend/rise up slow or fast, swim more head down or level. 

Best way to test the float is to just tape the weights in place and do a float test in a large Tupperware in your house (or empty fish tank).

Make sure you seal the bait up well after the weight, use a good wood filler or even better a two part wood filler or 2 part epoxy (which will fill the hole and seal it at the same time) 

 Obviously baits in pics aren’t slammers, but showing the float test method I use for finished and in the process baits. Bottom bait has weights taped inside the holes, and I adjust accordingly. 

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3 hours ago, MA Frog Man said:

IMAG3691.thumb.jpg.0dad981f3a40b49664faf1b89a1ac098.jpg

Drill some holes and fill with tungsten puddy then coat over them. Or just get a rashed one and let it take on water and it'll get deeper. I prefer that method

Might have to try that, thanks! How far does that one in the picture get down?

 

I've got a 2x from Mike that is technically a cranker but like @bigpoppabass said it gets down like 2ft at best. 

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12 hours ago, NEbucketmouth19 said:

Might have to try that, thanks! How far does that one in the picture get down?

 

I've got a 2x from Mike that is technically a cranker but like @bigpoppabass said it gets down like 2ft at best. 

I think it's more important to find a slammer that cranks down good before you do the mod. This one didn't crank down all that well but I wanted something that I could stall for a specific bite I was on. I have singles that crank down 3 feet without mod. Those are the ones I'd find to mod if you're looking for one to really get down

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4 minutes ago, MA Frog Man said:

I think it's more important to find a slammer that cranks down good before you do the mod. This one didn't crank down all that well but I wanted something that I could stall for a specific bite I was on. I have singles that crank down 3 feet without mod. Those are the ones I'd find to mod if you're looking for one to really get down

Agreed 100% 

i had a crank down that got down 4’ and stayed there, was a killer weed line/dock bait. 

Ordered another one, and it only went like a foot down. 

So if you have or can find one that already swims deep you’ll get the most depth out of those. 

If you need some actually “plug/swimbait” lead weights, shoot me a pm, can send you an assortment of ones that will work with that bait. 

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1 hour ago, Harshwaters said:

i think you would have to lengthen the bill or change the angle of it. I often thought of  machining some sort of  bill extension to attach to the existing one.

 

It crossed my mind to make a new bill out of a sheet of acrylic but I'm sure it would be quite the task to get it tuned in. 

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I tried, years back, to make a suspending Slammer.  I added tungsten weights to a 7" Slammer and learned that it is not as easy as it looks - the added weight definitely dampened the action because of the added inertia.  I think that you might have to experiment with where you add the weights (front or back, where on each section) with a focus on trying to get them dead in the centerline and on the center of gravity so that the bait still kicks as much as possible.  If it works, maybe consider posting a few pictures of how you did it.

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