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First Time Glide Baiting...did not go well


ozark_marine
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Hey guys

First time posting here. Please keep me in check if this belongs elsewhere!

I'm brand new to glide bait fishing. I bought the Spro KGB Chad Shad in Gizzard. Tied directly to the bait with a Palomar (no snap or swivel) using 17lb Invisx. Used an MHX swimbaits blank (SWB956). Had a great time until the first bite (Table Rock spotted bass). I leaned into the fish and POP! Broke off my brand new glide bait straight away. I was devastated, like a kid who just lost his favorite toy.

 

What could I or should I have done differently there with respect to my setup? I've since upgraded to 20lb line, but my confidence is a bit shot.

 

Thanks in advance

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There is a lot variable's at play here that could have led to you loosing your bait. 
 

Did you lubricate the line before you cinched it down? As you cinch a knot down, if you don’t lubricate it  can heat it up and make the line and knot brittle.
 You said you used a palomar knot, did you inspect it and make sure it was tied perfectly? Not crossed over? From my experience if you get lazy tying the palomar or any knot for that matter, it will lead to knot failure.

Do you check your line regularly for any signs of wear or imperfections? You should be inspecting the line regularly and retrying often.  Even if the line looks good,  I recommend you still retie often. Throwing larger baits and working them I feel takes it toll on the knot and line at the bait. There is always a lot of leverage and pressure being applied through the cast and retrieval.
 

These are just a few of the common issues and solutions  that come to mind at the moment. 

Edited by Mossyback Angler
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1 hour ago, Mossyback Angler said:

There is a lot variable's at play here that could have led to you loosing your bait. 
 

Did you lubricate the line before you cinched it down? As you cinch a knot down, if you don’t lubricate it  can heat it up and make the line and knot brittle.
 You said you used a palomar knot, did you inspect it and make sure it was tied perfectly? Not crossed over? From my experience if you get lazy tying the palomar or any knot for that matter, it will lead to knot failure.

Do you check your line regularly for any signs of wear or imperfections? You should be inspecting the line regularly and retrying often.  Even if the line looks good,  I recommend you still retie often. Throwing larger baits and working them I feel takes it toll on the knot and line at the bait. There is always a lot of leverage and pressure being applied through the cast and retrieval.
 

These are just a few of the common issues and solutions  that come to mind at the moment. 

That's good info, thanks. I think I didn't appreciate the amount of stress on the knot with a heavy bait. I had been throwing it for hours on that knot with no bites. I'll make a point to re tie more often. 

Thanks!

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On 11/16/2023 at 4:12 PM, ozark_marine said:

Right at the knot. Had a little curve in the line still from the knot.

Honestly that sounds like not enough spit on the line while cinching it, line was burned. 

The loop you have to create, depending on your knot skills, to clear the bait and hooks to tie that Palomar knot causes more line to be pulled through the knot  while cinching and as a result more opportunity to burn the line.

Since you will be retying more often now, it doesn't hurt to make it a point to spit on that line more as well.

My 2 cents

 

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All good comments here, just want to throw my two cents in. When I first started throwing swimbaits, I tied with a Palomar knot. I also broke off on my first actual bite. I did some research and a lot of guys were using the San Diego Jam knot for most of their swimbait fishing. I will swear by a single or double San Diego Jam knot. Definitely give it a shot. I also like 20 lb line for most of my swimbait fishing, and make sure my line is very well lubricated when tying. Hope your next outing comes together with a big one!

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16 minutes ago, B_larkin3 said:

To me the palomar is a braid or drop shot knot. I use an improved clinch for fluoro, copoly, and mono. 

I share the same sentiments regarding braid and using a palomar knot. I too favor the cinch knot for flourocabon or mono. 
To each is their own though. 

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Bill Siemental in his classic swimbait book says never evah evah nevah ever tie direct. We all have tied direct sometimes. I only do it when I know bait will only catch fish doing it that way.  If that line moves on the lie tie it can be like dragging it against a sharp rock. 

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On 11/16/2023 at 4:12 PM, ozark_marine said:

Right at the knot. Had a little curve in the line still from the knot.

Lubrication obvious, slowly cinch to avoid heat accumulation not so much, but both are important. The main trick is to not cross the line tying a Palomar. You want it side by side throughout the knot. Most don’t bother to confirm this, but as you experienced it does matter. Mono, copoly, braid no big deal, but fluorocarbon can crack. You won’t be able to see it, the knot will look good, but it isn’t.

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When I made the switch from mono to fluoro 10+ years ago, I switched to the trilene knot instead of the palomar. I now tie the trilene  knot on both fluro and braid. I also use braid to fluro leaders on almost everything except topwater and punching, that’d be straight braid for those techniques.

 The palomar seemed to burn and deform the fluro also the palomar wastes waaaay to much line per knot. When I tie the trilene knot there is zero tag to cut.

I also stopped tying direct. The reason being is that when a bait goes out of tune, I use pliers to re tune the bait. That metal to metal contact I believe can and will make sharp edges on the line tie. Those sharp edges will cut your directly tied knot and there goes your bait “unexplainably”.

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