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Musky Leader Advice for Small Swimbaits


mbleming
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Hi, while bass fishing yesterday I lost my second Deps Slide Swimmer 115 to a musky...I should've learned my lesson the first time, but I see VERY few muskies caught in my area and I thought the first was a total fluke. Well, yesterday I lost a second one to a musky who cut right through my 15 pound mono. Losing a $50 bait is a major bummer, but what really bothers me is leaving a bait like that in the mouth of a sizable and scarce fish...I stressed all night thinking I might end up killing this fish due to my negligence :( I'm considering leader solutions, but I worry a heavy leader will kill the crazy smooth, enticing action of the SS 115. Fishermen who deal with small/medium size muskies, what size leader do you use that will allow smallish swimbaits to keep most of their action? I'm thinking of trying 60# but would appreciate some input from others who've run into this issue...thanks!

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First its best if you tell me where this NJ Muskie infested water is so I can truly evaluate what leader system you should be using - obviously I’m kidding. 

This is the solution I’m currently using when specifically targeting pike and muskies - you need to decide on what pound test flourocarbon you need to use so it doesn’t kill the action of the bait. I’d start some where around 40#. 

As a side note my experience has been that if you’re using smaller lures when a pike or Muskie t bones the bait your odds of getting bit off are increased significantly as the smaller baits will easily fit into a muskies mouth along with the leader. When I’m targeting esox I fish baits that are in the 9” range and if I get a bass during that outing its generally a good one.

maybe @CG_Fishes will see this and chime in as he is passionate about targeting esox  

https://youtu.be/2OvRQN9IgBs

 

 

 

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Just now, Jim137a said:

First its best if you tell me where this NJ Muskie infested water is so I can truly evaluate what leader system you should be using - obviously I’m kidding. 

This is the solution I’m currently using when specifically targeting pike and muskies - you need to decide on what pound test flourocarbon you need to use so it doesn’t kill the action of the bait. I’d start some where around 40#. 

As a side note my experience has been that if you’re using smaller lures when a pike or Muskie t bones the bait your odds of getting bit off are increased significantly as the smaller baits will easily fit into a muskies mouth along with the leader. When I’m targeting esox I fish baits that are in the 9” range and if I get a bass during that outing its generally a good one.

maybe @CG_Fishes will see this and chime in as he is passionate about targeting esox  

https://youtu.be/2OvRQN9IgBs

 

 

 

Thanks, Jim137a...I've actually caught these guys in the Cooper River/Lake in southern NJ. I fish almost everyday in Hammonton Lake during my lunchbreak in chain pickerel infested waters and have never been cut off, though the fish are generally small there. Maybe it's bad luck or ineptitude on my part, but the muskies I've run into in Cooper Lake are bigger and seem to be sawing right through my 15# mono. Maybe 40# fluro will be a good starter...I really love the action on the SS 115, hopefully I won't lose that movement. I'd like to actually land one of these fish one day!

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I tie my own leaders using 60lb mono for 6-8" baits. For a deps 115  I would try 40 or 50 and see how it swims, use as heavy as you can get away with, those teeth don't mess around. And with the heavy leaders you still can't horse, if the fish runs, freespool it. 

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Thanks everyone...going to go with 40# fluro to start and see how it goes...I was always under the impression that mono was more prone to breakage due to abrasion, etc...is this actually the case? I always use mono on all my treble hooked baits as I like the little bit of stretch...also, everywhere I fish is pretty shallow and I'd like to keep baits up as long as possible so the little bit of float due to mono has always been preferable to me.

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1 hour ago, mbleming said:

Thanks everyone...going to go with 40# fluro to start and see how it goes...I was always under the impression that mono was more prone to breakage due to abrasion, etc...is this actually the case? I always use mono on all my treble hooked baits as I like the little bit of stretch...also, everywhere I fish is pretty shallow and I'd like to keep baits up as long as possible so the little bit of float due to mono has always been preferable to me.

Mono is stronger in every way when compared to fluoro, proven time and time again. People like to think fluoro is stronger because it costs more.

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4 hours ago, mbleming said:

Thanks, Jim137a...I've actually caught these guys in the Cooper River/Lake in southern NJ. I fish almost everyday in Hammonton Lake during my lunchbreak in chain pickerel infested waters and have never been cut off, though the fish are generally small there. Maybe it's bad luck or ineptitude on my part, but the muskies I've run into in Cooper Lake are bigger and seem to be sawing right through my 15# mono. Maybe 40# fluro will be a good starter...I really love the action on the SS 115, hopefully I won't lose that movement. I'd like to actually land one of these fish one day!

Good luck and hope to see you posting pics of you with a big Muskie soon. 
 

 

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Not sure if this person is on SU but I follow him on IG @riverrattus and he bass fishes pike infested waters and recommends this product and he seems to have no trouble catching either bass or pike. 
 

https://www.afwfishing.com/afw_products/Surflon_Leader_Wire_Nylon_Coated_1x7.asp

 

quick vid on making a AFW tippet/leader https://youtu.be/1OC712PSpF0

 

 

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If you want a leader that doesint get cut & isint stiff enought to ruin the action of your smaller lures, use 7 strand titanium. I like the one from afw.

 

Fluro is a bad choice for esox. Fluro is plastic and esox teeth can cut through plastic.

 

Titanium is awsome because it doesint kink like steel and it doesint get cut like fluro. 

 

 

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2 hours ago, bigesoxlures said:

If you want a leader that doesint get cut & isint stiff enought to ruin the action of your smaller lures, use 7 strand titanium. I like the one from afw.

 

Fluro is a bad choice for esox. Fluro is plastic and esox teeth can cut through plastic.

 

Titanium is awsome because it doesint kink like steel and it doesint get cut like fluro. 

 

 

Thanks, bigesoxlures! I'm gonna check into titanium...

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3 hours ago, bigesoxlures said:

If you want a leader that doesint get cut & isint stiff enought to ruin the action of your smaller lures, use 7 strand titanium. I like the one from afw.

 

Fluro is a bad choice for esox. Fluro is plastic and esox teeth can cut through plastic.

 

Titanium is awsome because it doesint kink like steel and it doesint get cut like fluro. 

 

 

Just to expand on this, is that tieable wire or do you use crimps with it? 

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36 minutes ago, chevro1et said:

Just to expand on this, is that tieable wire or do you use crimps with it? 

both the single strand and 7 strand titanium from afw is knotable.

 

I make my leaders using figure 8 knots and have yet to see a failurewhen the knots are done well, be it fighting big pike or wels catfish.

 

I wouldint crimp totanium because it is easier to mess up and damage it compared to stee or fluro.

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On 10/9/2021 at 1:38 PM, Jim137a said:

Not sure if this person is on SU but I follow him on IG @riverrattus and he bass fishes pike infested waters and recommends this product and he seems to have no trouble catching either bass or pike. 
 

https://www.afwfishing.com/afw_products/Surflon_Leader_Wire_Nylon_Coated_1x7.asp

 

quick vid on making a AFW tippet/leader https://youtu.be/1OC712PSpF0

 

 

I was just about to bring this up.  Riverrattus knows his ish. 

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